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Tromso ekspressen

5.10a, Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 12 votes
FA: Havard and Sjur Nesheim 1979
International > Europe > Norway > Lofoten > Gandalf Wall

Description

("The Tromso Express") Another set of nice cracks in the Gandalf wall provides clean, low-stakes climbing. If you're spending the whole day here, you may feel deja vu.

P1) 5.10a 40M. Starting just left or straight up the black, often seepy slab, pick your way up to a large left-facing corner. Make a somewhat difficult move off of jugs to get established in this corner, and layback of jam your way up. Continue over broken ground to another corner, and then step left into a clean-cut alcove on a slanting ledge to belay.

P2) 5.9 30M. Can be linked to P3. Step back out right and climb the thin crack. Either belay on a sloping ledge, or continue into the next pitch to the top with a 60M rope.

P3) 5.7 25M. Climb flakes and an arching crack left to the top.

Descent: walk off to the left.

Location

Locate the clean looking left-facing corner above a black, often seepy slab.

Protection

Standard rack

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The routes
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Tromso start
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