5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 17 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Jordy Morgan, Sam Trimboli|
|Page Views:||1,921 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Jordy Morgan on Jul 21, 2018|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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How did this one get overlooked??
While taking a closer inspection of the Bubble awhile ago, my lil buddy Sam wondered why no one had bolted the cool looking fin/arete on the right edge of the crag..?
Noticing that the fin zeros directly into the enticingly cool roof feature on the right side summit block, I began thinking why indeed?
Well its bolted now and if I do say so myself, an instant crag classic..
There are a couple ways to go about it.
We decided to bolt the direct line which takes the start of the old 10d top rope crack.
At the second bolt, traverse left into a large hueco..this is the crux section.
Keep going on cruiser Bubble style climbing up the buckety fin until you are standing on a small pillar, clip the next bolt under the roof with a long sling..(shoulder length plus a quickdraw best)..then tackle the surprisingly moderate roof.
If you use a long sling below the block and long draws on the rest of the bolts, rope drag can be pleasantly avoided.
8 bolts and a 2 bolt lower off anchor.
Update...some dudes were on this today and they went more or less straight up between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It looked awesome so we tried it that way too and it was awesome so this is now the official way that the route goes.