Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jordy Morgan, Sam Trimboli
Page Views: 611 total · 55/month
Shared By: Jordy Morgan on Jul 21, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description


How did this one get overlooked??

While taking a closer inspection of the Bubble awhile ago, my lil buddy Sam wondered why no one had bolted the cool looking fin/arete on the right edge of the crag..?
Noticing that the fin zeros directly into the enticingly cool roof feature on the right side summit block, I began thinking why indeed?

Well its bolted now and if I do say so myself, an instant crag classic..
There are a couple ways to go about it.
We decided to bolt the direct line which takes the start of the old 10d top rope crack.
At the second bolt, traverse left into a large hueco..this is the crux section.
Keep going on cruiser Bubble style climbing up the buckety fin until you are standing on a small pillar, clip the next bolt under the roof with a long sling..(shoulder length plus a quickdraw best)..then tackle the surprisingly moderate roof.

If you use a long sling below the block and long draws on the rest of the bolts, rope drag can be pleasantly avoided.
8 bolts and a 2 bolt lower off anchor.

Update...some dudes were on this today and they went more or less straight up between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It looked awesome so we tried it that way too and it was awesome so this is now the official way that the route goes.
:)

Location

Between Bubble Boy and Catchy.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos