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Traditional Temptation

5.10+, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Jacob Kochan
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Mt Charleston > Cathedral Rock > Church Pew
Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

You really CAN skip the bolts!

My favorite FA story.  

5 minutes after the last bolt was put in, Jacob sent this thing on gear.  Not like he clipped the first 2 bolts and then plugged the crack. No, he didn't clip a single bolt.  And it was chossy.  And he didn't have any beta.  I mean, he sent 5.13 later that day, but still, it was great.

A really sequency boulder problem is the opener, but leads to classic 5.9 corner climbing.  

Stick clipping the 2nd or 3rd bolt makes this one an enjoyable romp.  If that violates your ethics, then bring the rack, kid.


 The corner, bolted, crack.


6? draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Danny getting after it
[Hide Photo] Danny getting after it

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Dickie
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Fantastic route but I had more trouble on the start of this then several 5.11s climbed that day. Very tricky opening moves. May 18, 2020
[Hide Comment] Something broke for sure. Definitely stick clip to keep the bottom from being a day ruiner. May 28, 2020