Type: Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jacob Kochan (P1) Earl Mcalister (to the top)
Page Views: 1,376 total · 45/month
Shared By: Rprops on Jul 20, 2018
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

The first pitch is a stand alone awesome pitch, and the next 2 are good enough to try at least once.  There is a 4 bolt extension to pitch 1 that doesn't change the grade, and requires a 70m to get off of.  Pitch out as your heart desires, but here's how I did it.

P1.  Start in the blocky crack.  Climbing starts at 5.5 and basically gains a grade every bolt to the big ledge rest.  From here to the chains it is full on. Big moves on steep terrain to big holds.  10 bolts.

P2. Climb the 4 bolts to the next anchor and continue on, using long draws as needed.  As you pull out of the steep terrain, you will expect it to let up.  It will not.  Tiptoe through the easy-yet-chossy section, clip the high bolt, and climb up the left side of it.  The final move is kind of wild.  Extend the belay for maximum comfort, and safety for belaying the next section.  13 bolts.

P3.  Hard climbing right off the belay, eased by holds outside left.  Getting through this leads to the hollow flake section.  Really tricky to get through the last bit of this, as the flakes are so secure it's hard to give them up.  The last 40' or so is tiptoeing up through some looseness (we didn't knock anything off, everything was more secure than it looked) to bolts in the corner.  Escape left, top out, and walk climbers right to an anchor with a 2 foot chain.  9 bolts.

Walk off or rap the Original Route with at least a 70m.  Simul-rapping was nice for the rope stretch.

Protection

12 draws and 4 alpine runners worked nicely.

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