Weeping Willie (direct)
Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.1 from 8
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
2019 Peregrine Closure
Wisecrack to Scary Area
Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Some printed guidebooks list this as a variation on 'Willie's Weep'. The Gunks App has this route as the only climb listed in this area/corner, and it's called 'Weeping Willie'.
It's pleasant climbing combining Gunks thin horizontals (p1) and classic gunks overhanging corners (p2). I found this line moderately fun, including the part where I had to hide in a tiny cave just above the halfway-belay spot to avoid a surprise downpour ... until the water started seeping (weeping?) through the cracks onto us and some of the route. #namesake
You'll want to watch out for some loose rock in the corner of P2. There were a few, and in particular, one that is slightly larger than a microwave looks like a good handhold but could easily be pulled right off onto your belayer.
P1 – Start near the corner below a slab leading to a right-facing corner above (p2). Clamber up to a ~5’ ledge. Move up and right, and then back left, following the easier terrain and forming a sort-of large gentle arc ending at a small belay stance just below the large right facing corner.
P2 – Move up into the corner. Layback and stem up the low overhanging corner crack (crux), or use some face holds out left (easier but less protected). Continue up slightly easier terrain in the corner until the corner moves right and it seems logical to step around left onto the face. Continue up the face and trend right towards a slung pine tree.
70m rope required to rap from p2.
Start in the corner ~30' right of the Twin Oaks
G, standard gunks rack, but watch for loose blocks and hollow flakes.