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Weeping Willie (direct)

5.6, Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description


Some printed guidebooks list this as a variation on 'Willie's Weep'. The Gunks App has this route as the only climb listed in this area/corner, and it's called 'Weeping Willie'.

It's pleasant climbing combining Gunks thin horizontals (p1) and classic gunks overhanging corners (p2). I found this line moderately fun, including the part where I had to hide in a tiny cave just above the halfway-belay spot to avoid a surprise downpour ... until the water started seeping (weeping?) through the cracks onto us and some of the route. #namesake

You'll want to watch out for some loose rock in the corner of P2. There were a few, and in particular, one that is slightly larger than a microwave looks like a good handhold but could easily be pulled right off onto your belayer.

P1 – Start near the corner below a slab leading to a right-facing corner above (p2). Clamber up to a ~5’ ledge. Move up and right, and then back left, following the easier terrain and forming a sort-of large gentle arc ending at a small belay stance just below the large right facing corner.

P2 – Move up into the corner. Layback and stem up the low overhanging corner crack (crux), or use some face holds out left (easier but less protected). Continue up slightly easier terrain in the corner until the corner moves right and it seems logical to step around left onto the face. Continue up the face and trend right towards a slung pine tree.

70m rope required to rap from p2.

Location

Start in the corner ~30' right of the Twin Oaks crack start.

Protection

G, standard gunks rack, but watch for loose blocks and hollow flakes.