The Entertainer
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 788 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Derrick W on Jul 16, 2018 |
Admins: | Dave Rone |
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Access Issue: Located in a provincial park
Details
Some special rules apply to certain routes which are near native paintings. Access is by canoe or Alpine Club of Canada water shuttle
Description
Step off the boat and onto a small ledge. You can build a belay right here, though it's probably easier to scramble up for 5 meters to a larger ledge with more opportunities for gear.
P1 (5.7?) From the large ledge, traverse up and right on mediocre rock (i.e., beware of loose blocks) with well spaced gear. After 10 meters, you will find yourself at a crack below the left side of the pillar. We climbed straight up from here for approximately 15 meters, passing a blank spot before reaching the base of the pillar, where the climbing eases up. Build a gear anchor and belay atop the pillar.
P2 (5.9) Up and left from the belay is a finger crack that continues for 2-3 body lengths. Have your nuts and small cams ready and fire away! Once the crack is below you, start traversing left and slightly up, passing a piton or two and an awkwardly placed bolt. You are aiming for a small tree in a left angling overhang. Above the tree is a small ledge with a nest of old rusty pitons...and two brand new 1/2" bolts. Belay here.
P3 (5.?) Climb up then left, or left then up, or diagonally past a bulge 2 meters above the belay. Continue up varied climbing for 10 meters to gain a large ledge. From here I'm not sure where the route is supposed to go; I'll describe how we finished. Scramble left over a large tree, then up until just below a small overhang. Pulling the roof and you're done. There are a few large bolts on the ground 7 meters from the cliff edge for a belay.
P1 (5.7?) From the large ledge, traverse up and right on mediocre rock (i.e., beware of loose blocks) with well spaced gear. After 10 meters, you will find yourself at a crack below the left side of the pillar. We climbed straight up from here for approximately 15 meters, passing a blank spot before reaching the base of the pillar, where the climbing eases up. Build a gear anchor and belay atop the pillar.
P2 (5.9) Up and left from the belay is a finger crack that continues for 2-3 body lengths. Have your nuts and small cams ready and fire away! Once the crack is below you, start traversing left and slightly up, passing a piton or two and an awkwardly placed bolt. You are aiming for a small tree in a left angling overhang. Above the tree is a small ledge with a nest of old rusty pitons...and two brand new 1/2" bolts. Belay here.
P3 (5.?) Climb up then left, or left then up, or diagonally past a bulge 2 meters above the belay. Continue up varied climbing for 10 meters to gain a large ledge. From here I'm not sure where the route is supposed to go; I'll describe how we finished. Scramble left over a large tree, then up until just below a small overhang. Pulling the roof and you're done. There are a few large bolts on the ground 7 meters from the cliff edge for a belay.
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