Type: Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 4 pitches
FA: ? 2010
Page Views: 570 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ross Perrot on Jul 14, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Hicotomus Hikodemus shares the first two pitches with Sea of Cowards.

P1. 5.9, chossy. Climb up bulges and ledges trending mostly to the right of the open book corner. Finish with a fun bulge/overhang and a nice big belay ledge at the anchors, 60-70 feet.

P2. 5.10+, the choss continues. Climb the open book/corner system with lots of loose rock and flakes. Heads up to your belayer. Stay in the open book corner for the first 4 or 5 bolts, then traverse to the left side of the open book/corner system. Climb up the left side/face to the anchors, 80-90 feet.

P3. 5.10b/c, one of the best pitches in Telluride. $$$$. Traverse out left from the belay, then go up the face trending left to the big, overhanging roof/bulge. Pull the roof on hueco jugs (wow...fun), and climb up to the anchors on a comfy belay ledge, 80-90 feet.

P4. 5.10a, face/slab. Climb up and right from the belay on cobbles for a shorter pitch, 50-60 feet. Rap off via hardware.  

The route is really well-bolted. The PG-13 rating is on the first two pitches with lots of loose rock/choss. The rock quality gets better the higher you get.

Location

Start on the far left side of the Shark's Fin Wall. When you are in the far left corner, there are two crack systems. Both Hicotomus Hicodemus and Sea of Cowards climb up the left crack system for two pitches, 5.9 and 5.10+.

Protection

12 quickdraws and 2 anchor sets. It is a total hodgepodge setup at all of the anchors. Rap off via ferratta hardware for P4. The P3 anchors consists only of bolts. The rest of the anchors have at least one bolt with either chain or quicklinks on them. 2 ropes are recommended, but you can get down with a 70 meter with 4 rappels.

Photos

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