Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Earl Lunceford & Fremont Shields
Page Views: 277 total · 17/month
Shared By: Earl Lunceford on Jul 13, 2018
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: begin ascending the crack line which moves up and left on the face. You will come to an old tree that you go under and to the left of. On the left side of this tree you will clip a bolt and climb up to a two bolt belay anchor (5.8)
Pitch 2: This pitch is money and climbs up a steep, thin finger crack interspersed with a few bolts and gear placements until you reach a steep head wall. This is the 5.11d part. It does not protect and so a three bolt ladder was added to aid or free climb through this section up to a triangular shaped ledge with a gear belay behind a small tree (5.11d or 5.10 A1)
Pitch 3: Straight off of the belay ledge is a difficult move up a steep section. Here your partner might have to cradle his/ her hands for you to put your foot into and so lift you up so you can reach better holds. Continue up on gear until you reach a belay ledge with a Lost Arrow piton and single expansion bolt (5.10) 
Pitch 4: Climb straight up to a ledge and then begin traversing up and left under the roofy, yellow, overhung section. Here you will notice a ledge system you could traverse right if for some reason the party needed to bail. As you traverse you will go over some spooky “A, B, C blocks” with great exposure. Top out just to the right of Oka-Bates (5.9) 

Location

The route can be reached by hiking down Gunsights’ skiers left Ridge line to a notch where a ramp leads down To the North Face. Look for a scree pile that buttresses out from the face and hike to the top of it. Then scramble fourth class rock to the first belay ledge. 

Protection

Mixed route: gear to three inches & bolts

Photos

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