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Routes in The Bone Saw

EZ Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total · 74/month
Shared By: A. Ginger on Jul 13, 2018
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

I will start off by saying that I have not climbed this route’s first two pitches and my description is from speculation and observing it from EZ Direct. This route seems to be completely protected by gear but shares bolted belays with EZ Direct.

Pitch 1
Start up the very featured right arête of The Bone Saw feature. Climb through very featured rock presumably protected by gear, eventually trending to the left to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2
Start off the belay climbing right back to the featured arête passing the first bolt of EZ direct that can be clipped. Continue up the featured arête to a ledge. From the ledge, climb up the middle of the face then back to the arête leading to a bolted belay on a nice ledge. A long pitch.

Pitch 3, 5.5
Climb up the easy face to an overlap. Cross onto the overlap above the boulder feature. Follow the featured face and broken cracks up and right to a nice hands broken splitter. Follow the splitter to an awesome bolted belay at the top of the arête. Runner things well and watch for some loose rock. This pitch is all gear.

Pitch 4, 5.4
Continue up 4th class below the right side of the jagged ridge feature. Climb up between a large boulder and the ridge until it is possible to cross over to the left side of the ridge to a bolt. Continue up the broken ridge past gear to a bolted belay just above a group of small trees at the top of the ridge. A long pitch, runner things well and be wary of loose stone.

To descend, see the descent beta on The Bone Saw main page.

Location

Starts up the highly featured right arête of The Bome Saw feature. 

Protection

I have only climbed the last 1.5 pitches of this route, so the gear for the first 2 is pure speculation. There may be a piton or two as well. Cams from .3 to 3 Camalot (two 2’s would be nice), nuts could probably come in handy. Alpine draws, quickdraws and a 70m rope. Wear your helmet.

All belays replaced as of July 2018.

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