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Bug's Tomorrow

5.10, Sport, 50 ft (15 m), Grade V,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Paul Piana, Heidi Badarracco, 1989
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > S Seas > Hornets Nest
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Description

Fairly short and well-protected but challenging face climb. Start up the sparsely-featured awkward face, going left at first and then angling back right up a faint seam. The route begins to steepen and  reaches the quite physical crux move-- a smearing rock on to pull a lip and move on to a lower-angle dark grayish slab with widely-spaced but fairly positive holds. A bit dirty. Doesn't seem to see a ton of traffic. Felt the lower 2/3rds of this route was pretty full value at the 5.10 grade.

Location

Scramble up the 3rd class gully between Hornet's Nest and Shipyard turn left and then travers back right to reach the base of the BT face. This climb is directly right of the Vespidae arete.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bug's Tomorrow is the face at right center of photo to the right of the Vespidae face/arete.
[Hide Photo] Bug's Tomorrow is the face at right center of photo to the right of the Vespidae face/arete.