Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brooks Gunderson and Sean Hebner
Page Views: 195 total · 10/month
Shared By: Sean Hebner on Jul 11, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is an off-width to squeeze chimney that goes to the obvious belay ledge. The second pitch is a short, striking, left-leaning fist crack that is visible from the approach going to the top of the formation. Build your own anchors on the way up and walk off to a rappel station where a 70m will get you to the ground. If the first pitch doesn't give you the squirts, the second will.

Location

As you near the southeast corner of the formation, look to the upper section for the fist-size splitter leaning to the left. Once you get underneath it, do some switchbacks up some kitty-litter to reach the base. We belayed from the top of the rounded ledge at the bottom of the crack, but you could easily belay from the very bottom as well.

Protection

Pro from 0.75" to 8". The squeeze chimney narrows a bit sometimes towards the back for a #6 C4. Heavy on the 3-5" gear. 2 #6s would be useful. Build your own anchors with big gear for the first pitch and .75-2" gear on the second. Walk off the formation to a ledge close to the start of the second pitch crack and rap off with a 70m. Scrambling up to the anchors could be possible to retreat without doing the second pitch.

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