PRINT: Rock Climb North Face, High Sierra

North Face

5.6, Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Nate Ricklin and Scotty Nelson, July 12, 2008.
California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell

Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.

Description

The route takes a right-diagonaling crack system that traverses out above the steep depression in the center of the North face for three long pitches, then ascends two more pitches of stellar rock up a crack system straight up to meet with the East Ridge.

On the left hand side of the face locate a prominent right slanting crack and ramp system with a large offwidth down low. Follow this for 3 pitches (4th and easy 5th) until it meets the first major crack system. Climb this crack system (up great rock) for 2 pitches of 5.6 to the summit ridge.

The route is much easier than it appears from the ground, with the difficulty topping out at around 5.6 in the upper pitches.

Protection

Standard light Sierra rock rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

North Face of Mt. Russell

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

Is the best approach for this over Russell/Carillon Col? Jan 21, 2019

Sonya Maple
Mammoth Lakes, CA

@Chris Owen - Cleaver Col would be my preferred approach route instead, and then a descent via the East Ridge to Russell/Carillon pass and down the sandy route to Upper Boyscout. Cleaver Col (see summitpost.org/cleaver-col/…) is much less sandy and brings you to about the same place once you walk a short ways along the side of Tulainyo Lake. Also, gorgeous, and who doesn't love a loop? Jul 5, 2022