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Gotta Have Balls, Gotta Have Nuts
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Bionut Wall
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9 With Some 10 Stuff T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Back to School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Basalt Assault T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Blocky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Blocky Face variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cool Corner S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ellie's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gotta Have Balls, Gotta Have Nuts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Here's Johnny T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High Five T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Just Stand Up T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Gear Left Behind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rick Ross Big Bosch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Trad Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jordan Houde, Ellie Paulauskaite |
| Page Views: | 627 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Houde on Jul 10, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
After an easy jaunt up to the ledge, clip the first bolt and move up and right on positive if fleeting holds. Plug some gear at your waist, and move into the fractured system that encompasses the face. A 0.3 BD can be placed in a small, vertical pod from a good stance easing the mind a bit when contemplating the accompanying gear. Using rails, crimps, and sidepulls, move yourself into position under the vertical seam where you will place your final pro. This is the mental crux of the climb as it is protected with the little stuff (C3s, ballnuts, etc...). Pull over the bulge and slightly left, and you're there. This is a fun route with small gear and fun movement.
Location
This is the first route encountered, and it shares anchors with Cool Corner. A spruce tree just set back from the base makes for a great shady belay.
Photos
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