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Golden Years

5.9+, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: bolted by Chris Barnes, Mike Engle & Vernon Phinney, July 2018
Idaho > Central Idaho > Fins > Mortal Earth > 12. Dark Side of the…

Description

P1 (5.9) Start 10 feet right of Freebird and climb a steep thin section, then trend left to a ledge just left of a large bush.  Belay at the first anchors of Freebird.

P2 (5.10-) Move up and right following a diagonalling chert line until its possible to make an exciting move left to the edge of a shallow left facing corner.  Make the move left as soon as possible to keep the grade 10- (if you wait the move becomes more like hard 5.10).  Move up from the corner onto large chert holds.  Continue more or less straight up on sometimes thin chert holds.  Pull a headwall and move left to the the top anchors of Freebird.

Note: can be led in one long pitch with 22 quickdraws and some rope management to reduce drag.

Location

Find a bolt line directly below a large bush on a ledge about 60 feet off the ground.  Name tag is on the first bolt.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts; P2: 14 bolts. Use the chain anchors of Freebird for belaying and rappelling. A single 60 meter rope and two rappels to descend.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. Easily goes as one pitch with a couple long slings at the transition ledge. Two raps off Jun 6, 2020