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Routes in 09. Dark Side of the Moon

Another One Bites the Dust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherts So Good S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Diamond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freebird S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Years S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Rabbit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: bolted by Chris Barnes, Mike Engle & Vernon Phinney, July 2018
Page Views: 70 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 9, 2018
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.9) Start 10 feet right of Freebird and climb a steep thin section, then trend left to a ledge just left of a large bush.  Belay at the first anchors of Freebird.

P2 (5.10-) Move up and right following a diagonalling chert line until its possible to make an exciting move left to the edge of a shallow left facing corner.  Make the move left as soon as possible to keep the grade 10- (if you wait the move becomes more like hard 5.10).  Move up from the corner onto large chert holds.  Continue more or less straight up on sometimes thin chert holds.  Pull a headwall and move left to the the top anchors of Freebird.

Note: can be led in one long pitch with 22 quickdraws and some rope management to reduce drag.

Location

Find a bolt line directly below a large bush on a ledge about 60 feet off the ground.  Name tag is on the first bolt.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts; P2: 14 bolts. Use the chain anchors of Freebird for belaying and rappelling. A single 60 meter rope and two rappels to descend.

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