Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 628 total · 38/month
Shared By: Ryan Leno on Jul 8, 2018
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcon Nesting - Forbidden/North Comb Details

Description

Croissants to The Cosmic Slaughter is up a beautiful arete. It was begging to be bolted. Even though the bottom half is flaky like a croissant (the first two glue ins being less aesthetic = ugly).  If you are a picky climber, don’t bother. The motivation to climb this is due to the form of the arete and its steep roof, because it is not coming from the choss. The first moves are out left to a beautiful ledge and everything up is pockets that are mix of bomber and flake. About twenty feet up you get slammed into a near perfect/short horizontal roof that is a reflection of the routes name.  The crux/s is through the chossy roof. The actual holds in the challenging beta are great/solid holds and the bolt placement is in sweet patina. Great permadraws! The moves are a mix of tight heel hooks, sloppy pockets, monos, pulls and a finger crushing pinch/crimp to a rough dynamic move to a Sloper pocket on the top of this baby’s nose near the next permanent draw( SS chain) If it were not for the exfoliated first half, this route would be a classic. Past the nose of the arete and up is solid 5.9/5.10 climbing on great rock.

Location

This route is in the vertical hemicylinder on the North Comb. The route is on the obvious roof to arete with the hanging SS chain.

Protection

Glue-in bolts and Top Anchors(wedge bolt) Permadraws on bottom half. Quickdraws.

Photos