PRINT: Rock Climb Halley's Comet, Squamish

Halley's Comet

5.10c, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.7 from 20 votes
FA: P1 – Jon Rigg, Brent Goodman, Kaylan Worsnop, Danny Guestrin 2018 P2 – Joe Turley, Ted Marks 1985
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Halley’s Comet is an excellent splitter crack climb located on the left side of Dog Wall. This prominent line has caught the eye of many Squamish climbers, especially the residents of Valleycliffe who cannot help but gaze at the steep rock faces above their homes. It was first climbed on September 26, 1985 by Joe Turley and Ted Marks. Over the course of a week, they climbed it ground up, mainly on aid, cleaned the route, and then freed the 60 meter crack in two pitches. Joe being the more proficient crack climber of the team, climbed the first pitch and Ted led the second. Joe and Ted were amateur astronomers and named the route after Halley’s Comet because of their anticipation for its upcoming apparition in the following year. Several generations of tat and fixed gear provided evidence of occasional ascents before the crack was reclaimed by our rainforest and fell into obscurity. This classic splitter likely grew over due to its adventurous nature. It was originally approached from the left, which involved 4th class to low 5th scrambling through a vertical forest. Halley’s Comet now has a new first pitch that provides a pleasant and friendly approach to the base of the long finger and hand crack. A bolt was added to the spicy crux slab finish with approval from Joe Turley and Ted Marks.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m): Make an exposed traverse left then up a large flake and past several horizontal cracks. A thin traverse left leads to a short wide-hands corner crack ending at a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10c, 60m): Climb the long and beautiful splitter finger and hand crack. Once the crack peters out, clip a bolt and make delicate slab moves to a 2-bolt anchor.

Descent: 3 rappels with a 60m rope. From the top of the route, pull up a hand line to gain the forested terrace. Hike up and right to the rap line. First rappel off a tree anchor and two more rappels from bolted anchors.

Location

Start up the Slhanay trail and about 75 meters before the main rock face turn left onto the climber’s trail to Klootch Buttress. Approximately 30 m past the start of Babies in Kailand, before the trail steepens towards Photophobia, look for a faint trail that contours left. Follow this across a small talus field to the base of Dog Wall. Continue along the base to where the trail ends at a knotted fixed line. Rack up here. Up the fixed line to a ledge system that takes you down to a 2 bolt anchor that marks the start of the route. 20-25 minutes.

Protection

Nuts, Double set of cams (BD sizes) from 0.3 to 2 and a single 3. Triples from .3 to.75 are useful for those who want to stitch it up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Halley's Comet line and descent.

The long Halley's Comet 60 meter money pitch. This is half of it.

Halley's Comet approach.