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Elusive Trophy

5.13a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: 1995, Fred Abbuhl
New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mou… > Lost Hunters

Description

High-quality, difficult, and long...the complete package; a rare and special route. There are two long sections of really hard crimping. The rock is mostly good, but there are some fragile holds.

Stick clip. Lean across from the large boulder. Once on the face, traverse left (no feet) to some good holds. Go straight up the face to a fixed anchor at the top.

There are a two "rests", if you can call them that.

Location

On the large boulder left of Father Knows Best. The purists start down in the hole behind the boulder.

Protection

The route is mostly sport, but with really long spans between bolts. On one bolt (I think the 4th), you can use a really long draw so that you can clip from the good horizontal (or use a cam). Higher there is a good rest hold on the right (on the side of Father Knows Best), and you can get a good nut or cam here.  Use caution and have a good belayer if you don't stick clip the second bolt. The hold seems a bit fragile, you clip from above it and there is a nice back breaker boulder below. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Making the 5th clip while sending Elusive trophy. With permission from Paolo Escano.
[Hide Photo] Making the 5th clip while sending Elusive trophy. With permission from Paolo Escano.
Elusive Trophy, WiseOldMoon taking the rest
[Hide Photo] Elusive Trophy, WiseOldMoon taking the rest
Lost Hunters Cliff
[Hide Photo] Lost Hunters Cliff
Wise Moon on Elusive Trophy
[Hide Photo] Wise Moon on Elusive Trophy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

  5.13a/b
[Hide Comment] There's a video of the 2nd ascent (or, the first non-Fred ascent, as I think Fred has led this several times) here:

youtube.com/watch?v=T6F9pAF… Jul 4, 2018
aparnas
 
[Hide Comment] Really, really fun. For even more full value (the route already packs a big punch), skip the second rest and stay left for cool moves that flow nicely into the final crux. Oct 12, 2019
Nick Budka
Adirondacks
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] I had the pleasure of watching Will Cornell flash this rig on September 10th 2022 with a packed crag. Right before he warmed up with another impressive flash of Buck Fever. Pretty sweet to witness. Sep 12, 2022
Nick Budka
Adirondacks
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] The hold used to clip the second bolt finally broke. Chris said the hold is still usable as a pinch instead of a crimp. Apr 29, 2024