Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: 1995, Fred Abbuhl
Page Views: 1,432 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jul 4, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie

You & This Route

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High-quality, difficult, and long...the complete package; a rare and special route. There are two long sections of really hard crimping. The rock is mostly good, but there are some fragile holds.

Stick clip. Lean across from the large boulder. Once on the face, traverse left (no feet) to some good holds. Go straight up the face to a fixed anchor at the top.

There are a two "rests", if you can call them that.


On the large boulder left of Father Knows Best. The purists start down in the hole behind the boulder.


The route is mostly sport, but with really long spans between bolts. On one bolt (I think the 4th), you can use a really long draw so that you can clip from the good horizontal (or use a cam). Higher there is a good rest hold on the right (on the side of Father Knows Best), and you can get a good nut or cam here.  Use caution and have a good belayer if you don't stick clip the second bolt. The hold seems a bit fragile, you clip from above it and there is a nice back breaker boulder below.