Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | 2012, Ken Murphy |
Page Views: | 1,634 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Jim Lawyer on Jul 2, 2018 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Woah, this route is simply amazing!! The rock is bomber, on par with Elusive Trophy, and the climbing is steep, pumpy, and thought-provoking. The guidebook says it's "one of the best sport routes of its grade in the park"; not sure about that any more, but it's damn good.
Stick clip. Begin with 5.10 moves past the first bolt, then up to a ceiling and a good rest. Go straight up the face, work left and right on the best holds, past a cool hueco. After the last bolt, mantel onto a sloping ledge (a little scary with the bolt well below your feet), then reach up to clip high chain anchors.
Alternatively, after the last bolt, you can move left to a handcrack and follow this to the ledge, although you still have to mantel.
Stick clip. Begin with 5.10 moves past the first bolt, then up to a ceiling and a good rest. Go straight up the face, work left and right on the best holds, past a cool hueco. After the last bolt, mantel onto a sloping ledge (a little scary with the bolt well below your feet), then reach up to clip high chain anchors.
Alternatively, after the last bolt, you can move left to a handcrack and follow this to the ledge, although you still have to mantel.
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