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Routes in Lost Hunters

Buck Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elusive Trophy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Father Knows Best T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hot Compress S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Life of Try S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Terapia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 2012, Ken Murphy
Page Views: 81 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Woah, this route is simply amazing!! The rock is bomber, on par with Elusive Trophy, and the climbing is steep, pumpy, and thought-provoking. The guidebook says it's "one of the best sport routes of its grade in the park"; not sure about that any more, but it's damn good.

Stick clip. Begin with 5.10 moves past the first bolt, then run it out to a ceiling and a good rest. Go straight up the face, work left and right on the best holds, past a cool hueco. After the last bolt, mantel onto a sloping ledge (a little scary with the bolt well below your feet), then reach up to clip high chain anchors.

Alternatively, after the last bolt, you can move left to a handcrack and follow this to the ledge, although you still have to mantel.

Location

On the right side of the Main Wall, midway between Lost Hunters Crack and the arete on the right side of the wall, at a shallow, left-facing corner, and below the right end of a blocky roof 25' up.

Protection

Bolts, two bolt anchor.

Photos

aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
Every single move on this climb is 5 stars. Get on it, and don't worry about the grade - I felt far less secure on the crux moves of Terapia (.12a) than anything on Buck Fever. Aug 11, 2018

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