5.11d A0,
Trad, Aid,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Scott Cosgrove, Bob Gaines, and Dave Mayville, August 1993.
California
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> Upper Bulge Routes
Description
Begin at the base of the Vampire Direct Start.
P1: Climb up and right on chossy rock to a belay at a jammed block with a mountain mahogany.
P2: Stellar face climbing on excellent rock with incut edges past 7 bolts leads up and right to the arete. It's 5.11 past the first two bolts, then a single point of aid was used at the third bolt. From here, climb up a tiny blank right-facing corner with two bolts, then traverse up and right (sustained 5.11+) on very steep face climbing past two more bolts to the arete. Here you'll find a critical pro placement in a horizontal crack (.4 to .5 inches) that protects tricky slab moves (5.11+) up to the bolt anchor shared with The Crucifix.
Protection
Pro: 7 bolts, plus gear to 2 inches, including a CD from .4 to .5 inches.