Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ken Roberts + Philippe Giraud
Page Views: 569 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 29, 2018
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Lots of thoughtful interesting moves on positive holds, some out on an arete, some stemming in a corner.
. . Though there's an obvious chimney, no squirming needed.

If use variations at the start of each pitch, the overall difficulty could be kept to 5.6 (or less?).

pitch 1 (5.7 : 45-60 ft : 6 bolts) -
Find the obvious gully at near the right end of the vertical wall (left part) of this sector, just left of where the cliff gets overhanging (right part).
Start a bit right of that gully, move left into the gully, then up it a short ways.
. . Variation: Easier + nice climbing to start on the route "Les miserables de Hugo Boss"
. . . . . diagonal right up to its third bolt, then step right to join this route.

Soon exit from gully and move right to arete, and up that to ledge. Above that climb the face that forms the right wall of the gully, perhaps finding a few moves on the arete which forms its right edge.
. . Variation: Arete direct from the ledge all the way to the anchor (5.8+) . (might be tricky to reach bolt on face, impossible to reach sixth bolt in gully).

Left into the gully to finish up past left side of bulge to the two-bolt belay anchor under roof.
. . Variation: instead of left into gully, move right and finish over bulge or just right of it - (no protection).

pitch 2 (5.7 : 45-60 ft : 6 bolts) -
Up left under the roof and through the left edge of the roof (sooner moving "around" left makes it easier, more up "through" the edge of the roof makes it harder).
. . Variation: Much easier to avoid the roof completely by traversing left from the anchor then scrambling up.
Soon step right across the arete. Next up along the arete to the anchor. To prepare for Follower to do it this way, the Leader might go back down partway and unclip from the second bolt.

descent: Rappel from anchor at top of Pitch 2 (not than 30 meters to the ground).
. . . Variation: There are two more bolts above the P2 anchor. Then scramble higher unprotected to some sort of "top" of this sector. From there it is possible to walk / scramble down way around right (east). Or perhaps scramble higher left to an anchor for a dramatic overhanging "free" rappel. But finding your way around in the big wide area up there is not easy.

warning: Loose or breaking rock is surely a possibility in this new route. If possible the belayer or other members of the party ought to stand far away from anywhere near underneath the climber.

Location Suggest change

At the obvious gully at near the right end of the vertical wall (left part) of this sector, just left of where the cliff gets overhanging (right part).
. . (The name of this route is not painted on the rock).

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . also on this Photo

Protection Suggest change

12 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (Bolts + hangers are Stainless steel ("inox") 70mm x 10mm. Installed 2018).

Top anchors for both P1 + P2 are two-bolts-connected-by-chain with two enchained rappel rings.
. . (Bolts + hangers are Stainless steel ("inox") 70mm x 10mm. Attached chain + rings are Stainless. Installed 2018).

Photos

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