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Every Trick in the Book

5.11-, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: John Steiger, Jim Waugh 1983
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Reef of Rocks > Poseidon

Description

Both Steiger's & EFR's guide recommend this as it's own one pitch route. It's quite unique, & will have you remembering the route's name every 5 feet or so.

Listed as a variation start to "Something Unsaid," this interesting pitch is worth doing once if you're into long approaches & offers an alternative to regaining the ledge system that bisects the Sea Gods if you'd rather not solo the unprotectable 5.8 to get up to the ledge where Heat Wave, Something Unsaid, or Om start. Continuous & well-protected for the most part, smooth laybacks and delicate footwork take quite a tilted path. You traverse more than you gain height above the gully. Pulling over the lip is a fun, committing & different finish to an otherwise continuous route. You'll want to be followed to clean. 

(edit: I belayed from the tree but looking at that thing post-fire... plan to build an anchor elsewhere)

Location

Poseidon's Lower NW face. Just below the main ledge system. The line is obvious as you drop further down the gully if coming from around the Aegir.

Protection

Gear to #3 Camalot, doubles of fingers, nuts. Belay from tree on ledge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the start
[Hide Photo] From the start
The route from looking down the gully, start visible in bottom right
[Hide Photo] The route from looking down the gully, start visible in bottom right
The end of the route (right) & it's easier but high consequence option to regain the ledge
[Hide Photo] The end of the route (right) & it's easier but high consequence option to regain the ledge
Route from above, Eva following
[Hide Photo] Route from above, Eva following