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Gentleman's Route

5.7, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Main Cliff Right

Description

This is a fun link up I did the other day. It was enjoyable enough that I thought I'd share.

  1. (5.6) Start up the first pitch of Model Citizen,
  2. (5.2) From the belay at the top of the first pitch go up and left past two old rusty bolts to belay on the top of the second pitch of White Toad. 
  3. (5.7) To finish climb the normal third pitch of White Toad.

The climbing is consistently casual and it takes you on a very fun line to the top of the cliff.

Normal descent as for White Toad (Careful on the rappel)

Location

Locate the start as for Model Citizen, the trail to the Main Cliff from the parking lot spits you out at Main Cliff Right, Model Citizen is the left most of the obvious easy bolt lines, starting right next to a trail towards the top of the jumbled rocks.

Protection

sport

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

S. Neoh
 
[Hide Comment] Can P1 & P2 or P2 & P3 be easily combined to make the link-up two pitches?
We have a 70m rope and will use long slings on the easy P2.
TQ. Jul 19, 2018
Jonathan S

  5.7
[Hide Comment] P1+P2 should combine easily. Might be some rope drag towards the end of P2 if you try that tho. Jul 19, 2018
S. Neoh
 
[Hide Comment] We linked P1&P2 into one long pitch today. The traverse is enjoyably exposed. With two slings and a long draw after the P1 anchor, rope drag was minimal. Jul 21, 2018