Work your way onto the rock off of the steep scree hill (crux), clip the first bolt and work your way up and left into a funky overhanging lieback. Get some gear in the crack here and work your way up through it (actual crux). After getting established on the face above, be careful of loose rock and not hitting your belayer with it. Pulled a 20 lb chunk off just after the crux the other day (6/18). Climb past a few more bolts and a short finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor above some more loose rocks.

Worth doing at least once! Will be better once it's a little cleaner.

On the far left side of the main buttress, from the approach trail: walk left for a couple minutes, pass two giant Ponderosa pines in a gully and cut uphill here. Locate the route "Sharpen Your Teeth" (listed just to the left of this one), and slog 15' up steep loose scree into the little canyon directly up and to the right of it. Currently this is the only route in there that starts on bolts.

A few bolts, and a few finger to hand sized crack widgets. 2 Bolt rap anchor