Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: FA: Joel Irby (Aid solo) FFA: David Hoven and Spencer Cone
Page Views: 581 total · 19/month
Shared By: Spencer Cone on Jun 26, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Jared LaVacque, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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P1. Begin under a slightly chossy roof. Delicately pull through the roof and work your way into a slot with a thin crack along the left side (although the rock quality is not stellar on this section, the roof move itself can be easily protected). Follow this thin crack until it peters out, then step left onto the face. Climb up on easy terrain to a two bolt anchor, 5.9.

P2. Traverse left on thin holds, but good rock, past two bolts. Pull up through a strenuous bulge and into a splitter. Follow the splitter up the left side of a large pillar. Commit to one last exhilarating move and heave your way onto the top of the pillar where a two bolt anchor awaits. This is an awesome pitch, 5.10.

P3. This pitch is the shit! Climb up a wide but easy crack past a large chockstone to a stance. Before you lies a horizontal slot/roof that extends out thirty feet towards the Dolores River. Dive up and into that luxurious cavity while carefully avoiding the gargantuan clumps of bat feces. Number 5s work well to protect this unique piece of climbing. After groveling horizontally along the roof, turn the corner into some proper but moderate offwidth climbing. Chicken-winging and stemming leads up to another anchor at a stance. The climbing on this pitch truly unique and unlike any other route I've done, 5.10.

P4. Step right, and follow the splitter up through a short but awkward bulge. Be wary of some loose blocks as you work your way up easier terrain to a giant ledge. Do not stop at the ledge but carefully climb upwards to a #1-sized crack that takes you to the summit anchors. From the anchors, it’s a 15 foot scramble to the summit and a sweeping view of the Dolores River, 5.9.

Descent: slam a Busch beer, then rap to the top of P3 (100feet), then from the top of P3 to P1 (180 feet), then to the ground. 60m+ ropes work best.


Drive 13 miles South from Gateway on CO 141. The tower will be obvious on the right. Park at a pullout on the right side of the road, and hike 10-15 minutes to the base of the tower. The route ascends the crack system that splits the NE side of the tower.


Doubles from 0.2 - 4 and three 5s.