Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Greg Davis and Jeff Sherman, November 1974
Page Views: 128 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steve R. on Jun 25, 2018 with updates from Greg Davis
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

P1. Start in the large, left-facing corner/gully. Climb 150 feet to a belay spot under a smaller, left-facing corner to the left of the original, larger gully/left-facing corner, 5.4/5.5.

P2 (crux #1). There are two options here: either the smaller, left-facing corner to climber's left or the larger one on the right - both looked about 5.7. There was snow on the right, so we went left. This pitch had a few 5.8 moves as well as a small ledge about 50 feet from the start of the pitch that required two A1 moves: the first was a nut at the lip of the ledge, and the second was a nut just above the ledge. Once past this ledge, there was a nice belay spot about 30 feet below the ridge (one could probably climb through this short aid section at about 5.10). (Please note the original climb may have gone climber's right up the larger corner system at 5.7 A1.)

P3. Go up and left eventual gaining the ridge, easy 5.4/5.5 climbing. The second half of this relatively long pitch is on the ridge. One stops at about 100-120 feet due to rope drag.

P4. Climb another relatively easy 5.4/5.5 ridge pitch, staying mostly on climber's left of the ridge. This is a long pitch, which may be broken in two if rope drag is an issue. This brings you to a gendarme. You end up belaying on climber's left of the gendarme at the base of a chute/gully with multiple cracks/ridges going through it.

P5. One can likely climb the chute mentioned above to climber's left of the gendarme (we didn’t do this so not 100% it would go, but this is likely the original route). Instead we went right about 30 feet around a corner and up a large chimney that bisects the gendarme. This went at 5.7, but the rockfall hazard in the chimney was significant. Belay from the top of the gendarme (~80 foot pitch).

P6. Climb about 120 feet of easy 5.4/5.5 climbing on the left of a broad ridge line to some grassy ledges below the final headwall and its very large chimney. Belay here (see the photo).

P7. I would suggest splitting the final, massive chimney into two pitches due its length (200-220 feet). The chimney can be wet, for us in June it was wet and had verglas ice over half of it - perhaps later in summer there would be easier, multiple route options. Climb about 80 feet (5.6+) up to a nice belay ledge where the chimney is bisected in two by a ridge within in.

P8 (crux #2) - 120 feet, 5.8. Going left of the ridge looked too steep and wet. Instead, we went to the right but had to downclimb after 30 feet due to verglas. This side couldn’t be aided (if dry and ice-free, it looked about 5.7). We instead climbed/gained the ridge in the chimney directly - starting on its right-hand side. It was a committing 5.8 move to gain the ridge without good protection (PG-13). Climb this small ridge in the chimney at 5.5/5.6 until you reach another steep section about 60 feet above the belay. Here one pulls a right-sided layback (body to right) along good but not reassuringly stable fins of rock (again 5.8, PG-13). You then climb at 5.6/5.4 to the top of the chimney where you break the crest and set up a belay on one of the big boulders up and to the right.

Next, scramble 400 feet of 3rd Class rock to the summit. We encountered one easy snow section in June across a small col - a slip (unlikely) would let you fall off the east face.

Walk south along easy scree following a rudimentary trail down to a Class 2 gully back to the base of the east face. This descent col starts just north of a large boulder/rock outcropping. Crampons weren’t necessary for the descent.

Per Greg Davis: the first ascent was on a sunny day to start out, but late afternoon snowstorm trapped us on the summit for an unplanned and unpleasant bivouac.

Location

The climb starts at the top of the massive gully on the right side of the east face. The approach from the bivy in the basin below the east face took about 30-40 minutes and required crampons in June. The last 100 feet was steep snow that required piolet traction with one ice axe to ascend smoothly.

Protection

One set of nuts (3-10) and one set of cams (0.3-3). One can do the aid with slings and converted double/cordalette—etriers/fifis/daisies useful but likely overkill for 2 A1 moves. Crampons are required in June. An ice axe was nice but not required. Bring light mountain boots or approach shoes.

Photos

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