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Northeast Buttress

5.8+, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Mark Weigelt and Julie Brugger, 1970
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Colchuck Peak

Description

Kearney and Beckey have different starts.  The first 4 pitches below represent the Kearney version:

P1: From the lowest point of the buttress, gain the rock and head for wide, broken cracks (5.8)
P2: Reach the crest of the buttress below a big headwall (short pitch)
P3: Down-climb from the crest about 15 feet, then work up and right on ramps to a vertical seam, then back left to a ledge (5.7)
P4: Get into the main dihedral and pull a series of tougher moves, including a shallow chimney.  This pitch is a bit dirty.  (5.7-5.8)
--The Beckey and Kearney versions meet here--
P5-8: Rising traverse on ledges (5.0 to 5.5)
P9-10: Head up the wall, gaining a left-facing corner and running it to the ridge crest (5.8-5.9)
P11-12: Ascend the buttress crest, traversing right onto ledges and getting to the base of the headwall (5.6)
P13: Traverse right on ledges underneath big blocks to the North-facing aspect under a dihedral (low 5th)
P14: Follow the dihedral and then blocky terrain to the summit plateau (5.6)

Location

The prominent buttress just South of the NE Couloir.  Approach via Stuart Lake Trailhead and the Colchuck Lake trail, ascending the moraine and Colchuck Glacier.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches; doubles .5 to 2 were handy

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down the buttress crest from Pitch 10 or 11
[Hide Photo] Looking down the buttress crest from Pitch 10 or 11
Pitch 1 of the Kearney version
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 of the Kearney version

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J Roatch
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Craig Muderlak and I did a variation of this route of September of last year (2018). This was a fun adventure climb, with an interesting decent down Colchuck glacier in that time of year. Earlier in the summer (ie. June) would make the decent much better, and probably the approach.

The approach involved some easy crevasse negotiation.

The route was fun! The rock mostly good, with I'd say only one pitch being a "throwaway" - that being the long bushy traverse. Stepping off of the snow we immediately had great rock quality and a cool line, gaining at the lowest point of the buttress. A good adventure. Apr 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] Did the Beckey. Found it quite loose. The route is an adventure with some cool exposure but it meanders too much. I have seen people say it is better than serpentine next door. That is completely insane. Serpentine is a way better route that brings you right to a proper summit with better rock. Aug 1, 2019