Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches
FA: Leo Henson
Page Views: 905 total · 25/month
Shared By: Darren S on Jun 24, 2018
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details


The route begins on a pillar-like feature covered with bands of chert and is situated below and to the right of the falls which form the Hose Monster.
Currently there is some loose rock on this climb, helmets are recommended.  With traffic, it will clean up.  The movement on the climb is great, and the position is spectacular.  

P1 - 5.10- (3 bolts) 20m give or take depending on where you start. Begin by climbing up ledgy low angle terrain.  Pass 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains

P2 - 5.10-, 30m (11 bolts) The climbing begins to get interesting here with a long sustained pitch littered with incut holds in the chert bands that cover the wall. Belay at a two bolt station just below the low angled ledge above.  
(Note: these two pitches can be linked with 15 draws, a long one for the P1 anchor is helpful.)

P3 - 3rd class, 30m (0 bolts) scramble up the low angled ledge to the two bolt station with chains on the face above the ledge.

P4 - 11c, 30m (9 bolts) Leave the ledge and head up into the bouldery crux of the route.  A few body lengths of challenging climbing leads to sustained 5.10.  The pitch eventually backs off and you will find yourself at another two bolt station with chains.  

P5 - 11a, 30m (9 bolts) Climb through some steep terrain and gain a cool orange dihedral.  Stem your way up to the airy ledge where you will find another 2 bolt station with chain.  

P6 (?) After climbing some really fun pitches, the scrambly pitch above seemed anti-climactic so we decided to descend instead.  

Descend with a single 60m rope back the way you came.  (We tagged another 60m rope with us and got down in 3 rappels with no snagging).


Stand to the right of the falls and look up for an anchor station about 20 - 30m up the wall.  The chains have been painted a tan color.