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Routes in Mt. Borah

MullladyMillsap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
North Face of Mount Borah T AI2
Psycho Therapy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a AI4 M6
Southwest Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Spring 2018
Page Views: 119 total · 24/month
Shared By: Connor Mullady on Jun 23, 2018
Admins: Mike Engle

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We originally intended to climb the south couloir but conditions forced us to diverge.  From the trail-head shoot due west, making sure to stay north of the ridge separating Borah Peak from Merriam Lake.  Follow a small stream up to a small lake with a cliff above it, go south(left) of the cliff. Traverse the scree without rolling an ankle and you reach a series of limestone rock-banks running to the north.  Follow these rock bands to the top of East Direct.  Shoot straight up the summit block from here (~70' of 5.6) till you reach easier 4th-class.  Go straight up till you connect with Chicken Out and follow that to the summit.

There's no easy way back the way you came, we descended Chicken Out until we hill the saddle at which point we shot down a steep eastern slope.  This made for a sketchy mid-day descent on snow, and probably just as bad in the summer with scree.


Take NF-118 to the Leatherman Peak trail-head (google specific directions there).  The road was terribly rocky and rutted out from spring runoff, we got stuck for 2 hours and had to dig ourselves out with an ice ax, don't follow in our footsteps, bring a 4WD, not a RWD Ford van...


0.5 camelot
#1 camelot
#2 camelot
a set of wires


Evan Millsap
Fairbanks, AK
Evan Millsap   Fairbanks, AK
This route was awesome and not too technical. Jun 24, 2018

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