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Castle Column

5.9, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Ken Hebb 2018 June 17
New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Panther Gorge

Description

Be aware of loose blocks in this area.

Climb to a narrow ledge about 6’ off the ground and find the short chimney with a fingercrack in its back on the right side. Climb to a ledge at its top. Gain another fingercrack in a right facing corner (crux). Climb to its top where it transitions from a corner to a handcrack. Gain another crack to the right that leads to a ledge below a gully with large stacked blocks. Climb gully to its top with solid gear on the left. Avoid the blocks. Belay from a 10” diameter tree about 20’ into the woods.

Descent: Walkoff or rappel down route.

Location

This area has historical significance. Mountain guide, Orson Phelps, described various features of Panther Gorge to his clients during the late 1800’s. He peered across from the Haystack pillars and described a feature to photographer S. R. Stoddard. He called it Castle Column and noted that it was at the head of the cliff. While I’m unaware of anyone who knows if this is the specific feature, it matches Phelps’ description.

Start between the obvious free standing stone and Belshazzar’s Fate.

Protection

Great

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

MudRat looking up the route.
[Hide Photo] MudRat looking up the route.
Route line for Castle Column in Panther Gorge.
[Hide Photo] Route line for Castle Column in Panther Gorge.
Ken Hebb on belay during the FA.
[Hide Photo] Ken Hebb on belay during the FA.