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Routes in The Sail

Anchor Thief S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bandito's Bat Roost T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Choss Dodger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Sail S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Guard Your Dingy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Keelhaul S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mish Mast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Plate Tectonics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spanker Mast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Brown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wolverine T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Noah Kaufman
Page Views: 144 total · 71/month
Shared By: Boulderdoc Kaufman on Jun 20, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Wow, this amazing line on great rock climbs the proudest feature of The Sail head-on up the intimidating, steep prow.

Start as for "Keelhaul" and "Half Mast," and climb up and right directly into the sustained, bouldery roof feature. Make hard, sequential moves with good clipping positions to an amazing throw move to "the jug," and get the clip before embarking on the engaging and difficult boulder problem crux. After the hard climbing is done, there is thought provoking 5.11 to the top with several no-hands rests before the final head-check boulder problem on airy moves just below the anchor.

This is a must do for the 5.13 climber and will need consensus to settle into its final rating. Please leave a comment about your experience on this stunner! The Poudre delivers once again!

Location

To start this route, climb up 6 feet of easy 4th class to gain the ledge that most of these Sail routes start on. There is a well-conceived belayer bolt just around the exposed corner. Stick clip the first bolt, on the overhanging prow or alternatively clip the first low bolt of the two 5.12s around left, and back-clean to avoid the sharp edge and rope drag. The bolts are close enough to yard on to go bolt-to-bolt, and the position is classic AF.

This was bolted by Noah Kaufman and Ben Wisner for your pleasure.

Protection

11 bolts with biners on the chains.

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