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Routes in Bumblie Rock
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Beer and Dandelions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brass Monkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bumble Pie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bumblie Takes a Tumblie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Christiansen's Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fifty Feet of Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flight of the Bumblie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Miki's Six T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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New York Is Not The City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return of the Bumblie S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Too Much Fun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 42.07848, -113.7135 |
| FA: | Unknown; Tony Calderone and Peter Lenz climbed it on 6/16/18 |
| Page Views: | 972 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a mostly gear protected line just to the right of “Too Much Fun,” which preceded "Brass Monkey," by many years.
It joins “Too Much Fun” on the final slab; you will clip the last few bolts , and use the anchor for “Too Much Fun.”
1) You will need two ropes for the descent from the Too Much Fun anchor. 2) Brass nuts or other micronuts are highly recommended to protect the crux. Directly to the climbers right of Too Much Fun, you will see a ramp trending rightward, below a light colored face. Ascend this ramp easily, and gain the obvious crack, which initially protects well. Ascend to where the crack narrows down to finger size, and the feet become problematic. This is the crux, and it protects reasonably with brass nuts. Persevere through a few feet of thin hands and feet, and the crack opens again to hand size, the angle eases, and footholds reappear. Avoid temptation to stay in the crack, which opens to chimney size.Ascend the final slab and clip the last few bolts of “Too Much Fun,” to the anchor.
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