Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft (26 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 580 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 16, 2018
Admins: SMarsh

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Description Suggest change

Somewhat-thoughtful slab climbing on slanting rock in lowest part. Then gets easier less interesting. Finally just scrambling on vegetated rock.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start at the base of a left-trending inside corner facing left, which is below left from obvious down-protruding nose about 25 ft up. Step up right onto left-sloping rock whiich forms high right edge of the left-facing inside corner. Up this left-sloping rock trending left, then straight up on rock along right side of gully, to pass just right of old light-brown peeling-bark cedar tree which splits low into two trunks.

P2: Up the slabs, aiming to pass right of old light-brown peeling-bark cedar tree with branches pointing downward. Also pass right of mature pine tree. Finish up grassy path to 8-inch thick peeling-bark cedar tree about 15 ft right from live tree which is just right of two low flat blocks.
. . Variation: Better rock (but no protection for Leading) if just after pass by mature pine tree, instead traverse left to join finish of next route to left, roughly toward just left of live tree which is right of two low flat rocks to the right of the dead tree stump.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

name: The southern part of the land once managed by the Smiley family has an interesing lower viewpoint along a carriage road which is named Hamilton Point.

Location Suggest change

At the base of a left-trending inside corner facing left, which is below left from obvious down-protruding nose about 25 ft up.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection Suggest change

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.
 
warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Spacing of protection not bad for a route of this difficulty, so if you fall you'll likely get hurt by hitting a ledge or protruding rock. Also some placements are of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on small to medium cams, medium stoppers. And slings for trees.

Photos

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