Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 530 total · 13/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 14, 2018
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Some interesting moves.
The concept of going over the nose makes the climb, and then thoughtful slab moves immediately above, but perhaps rest of the route does not live up to the nose part.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start from left side of rock bench about 20 ft up right from big tree. Directly up slab to obvious down-protruding nose. Over nose (without using footholds on slab below right from nose) and straight up slab above, and find tree to use for belay anchor (perhaps one or both of the old light-brown peeling-bark cedar trees near the top of the dirty gully.

P2: Next aim for steeper block on right side of face. Over this and finish up vague crack to about 10 ft right from big tree stump.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

name: Gertrude's Nose is at the end of some cliffs south from Millbook Mt. Often reached by hiking/scrambling route in Minnewaska State Park. Could also be reached by first hiking south above the Near Trapps climbing sector of the Mohonk Preserve to Millbrook Mt.

Location

Left side of rock bench about 20 ft up right from big tree and directly below obvious down-protruding nose about 25 ft up.

- - > See on this Photo
 
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.
 
warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Crux protection is of low or uncertain quality or tricky to find (see Comment below). Substantial run-out at finish. Also other placements of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on medium + small-ish cams. Lots of slings for trees and rock features.

Photos