5.10+,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Graeme Aimeer, 1983
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (z) Lower Gorge
> W Side
> (2) Wildfire Wall
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
I'd overlooked this line for years before doing it while working on Body Karate and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing. No move is all that stopper, but they're sustained at the grade down low. The protection is a little on the thin side, but feels pretty reasonable for the Gorge.
This is the path of least resistance up the Karate zone. Start up the only crack system on an otherwise blank face, step right at the roof, (bolt that replaced a fixed pin) and continue up a finger-ish crack above. Up high the columns end and you climb ~20' up more broken rock to chains on the left.
Protection
Mostly thin. Doubles of purple-yellow C3s, and maybe some RPs. No ballnuts required, but you could place a few if you had them. It's also worth bringing a single set from 0.4-1.