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Routes in Hidden Wall
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Dogging the Little Pig T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freedom of the Bills T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gods Plan T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Good to the Last Drop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Carly Poremba, George Perkins 5/2018 (w/ some terrain climbed previously by John Kear and unknown parties) |
| Page Views: | 850 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This variation deviates left of Good to the Last Drop's p2, and climbs through a unusually cool pitch and some adventurous terrain. If you want to climb Good to the Last Drop, don't do this. If you want to climb a new-to-you big cliff in the Sandias, and 5.9 is too easy, it might be for you.
P1. As for Good to the Last Drop. Identify the bolt to start, then trend generally up and slightly right to a terrace. Belay at a small tree on the upper right side of the terrace (180', 5.9+).
P2. Go up a widish crack that continues to a stance on a pillar below a nice headwall. Good to the Last Drop goes right somewhere around here. (There's a lower bolt on a slab to the the left in this vicinity that is probably part of John's direct line to the p3 headwall) (150', 5.8).
P3. Climb the striking red face headwall that has 3 black bolts gained from a committing lieback into a flared slot, then another committing lieback to the first bolt. I thought it was heady up to the first bolt and overall solid 5.11; Carly thought it was 5.10+/11-, but she didn’t take a 25’ fall from the top of the liebacking and I was wearing blown-out shoes. Escape left from the last bolt. Above the hard face was a 50’ 5.8 runout with no gear on good rock. Belay at a tree on a ledge system. This pitch is burly, badass, technical, and unusual for the Sandias. (We did not fully redpoint this pitch on lead.)
P4. We went up and left on the ledge/ramp, up a 5.9/10- wide crack in a R-facing corner (all indications were this was untraveled) to a ledge with a big tree (170').
P5. Climb the path of least resistance, passing trees. This seemed to be an undocumented old line that probably started to the left (had an older fixed knife blade that we pulled out with fingers; not listed in Hill book). The now-removed fixed pin, if it were solid, was the only pro protecting 5.9 moves 20' over a ledge. Other options might exist. I ran this to the base of the ramp in a 215' pitch, but intermediate belays at trees are possible (5.9R).
P6. Find your way up the ramp to the left to the top (5.4R, 190').
We did this climb due to getting off route on Good to the Last Drop and deciding to keep going up rather than go down and sort it out. Pitch 3 was part of a project bolted and sussed out by John Kear 6-8 years ago that was never finished, and the top was climbed a long time ago-- it's a stretch for us to claim a FA and we don't really care about that. But we felt the end result was a decent climb worth sharing with other avid Sandia climbers: though discontinuous- it's pretty tall, a good adventure, pretty good rock, nice belay ledges.
P1. As for Good to the Last Drop. Identify the bolt to start, then trend generally up and slightly right to a terrace. Belay at a small tree on the upper right side of the terrace (180', 5.9+).
P2. Go up a widish crack that continues to a stance on a pillar below a nice headwall. Good to the Last Drop goes right somewhere around here. (There's a lower bolt on a slab to the the left in this vicinity that is probably part of John's direct line to the p3 headwall) (150', 5.8).
P3. Climb the striking red face headwall that has 3 black bolts gained from a committing lieback into a flared slot, then another committing lieback to the first bolt. I thought it was heady up to the first bolt and overall solid 5.11; Carly thought it was 5.10+/11-, but she didn’t take a 25’ fall from the top of the liebacking and I was wearing blown-out shoes. Escape left from the last bolt. Above the hard face was a 50’ 5.8 runout with no gear on good rock. Belay at a tree on a ledge system. This pitch is burly, badass, technical, and unusual for the Sandias. (We did not fully redpoint this pitch on lead.)
P4. We went up and left on the ledge/ramp, up a 5.9/10- wide crack in a R-facing corner (all indications were this was untraveled) to a ledge with a big tree (170').
P5. Climb the path of least resistance, passing trees. This seemed to be an undocumented old line that probably started to the left (had an older fixed knife blade that we pulled out with fingers; not listed in Hill book). The now-removed fixed pin, if it were solid, was the only pro protecting 5.9 moves 20' over a ledge. Other options might exist. I ran this to the base of the ramp in a 215' pitch, but intermediate belays at trees are possible (5.9R).
P6. Find your way up the ramp to the left to the top (5.4R, 190').
We did this climb due to getting off route on Good to the Last Drop and deciding to keep going up rather than go down and sort it out. Pitch 3 was part of a project bolted and sussed out by John Kear 6-8 years ago that was never finished, and the top was climbed a long time ago-- it's a stretch for us to claim a FA and we don't really care about that. But we felt the end result was a decent climb worth sharing with other avid Sandia climbers: though discontinuous- it's pretty tall, a good adventure, pretty good rock, nice belay ledges.
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