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> Mamquam FSR
> Valleycliffe Heights
Old and the Ugly
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Valleycliffe Heights
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Apocalypse Meow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Baloney Pony S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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brESS Friends S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Craptastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Douchbags or Underdogs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Elitepisst S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Land of Leggings and Loafers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Middle Aged Madness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nocturnal Disruption S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Old and the Ugly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scruffy Fern Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sherriffs Vag, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Shots Fired S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Squampton Sticker on a Rollls Royce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stem or Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 647 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Eliza Rob on Jun 9, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: FSR TEMPORARY CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Branch 01 (Stawamus/ Indian mainline)
- Industrial activities 0-1.5km. Expect delays
- Road closed to all users at new gate at 9.5km; May 9 - September 2, 2024 due to construction activities. Traffic control personnel on site.
- Branch 02 (Shannon Branch to Stawamus Chief and Sea to Sky Gondola)
- Road closed April 15 – May 31, 2024 Monday-Friday, 07:00-11:00 & 12:00-17:00.
- Occasional road closures June 1 - 28, 2024. Traffic control personnel on site during closures.
- Inquiries regarding Branch 02 road closures should be directed to the Sea to Sky Gondola (Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550 or email Rob Walter. After hours or emergencies: 604-892-2555).
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Chossy but easy climbing at the start leads to a strenuous leftwards traverse to the shared jug ledge of Middle Aged Madness. Instead of continuing up and left as for that route, execute a strenuous crux move back out right before an easier finish.
Location
The last route on the right before the routes which start off the ledge above. The route traverses left at the start and shares some holds in the middle with Middle Aged Madness before finishing to the right.
Photos
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