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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | BK June 2, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Jun 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is best climbed after Cream Dream Tower. From the Chimney Route's 2nd pitch, rappel down the slab to the notch between Wet Dream and Cream Dream.
Alternatively, climb up chossy rock from the P1 anchor on the Chimney Route. I didn't climb this but it looked very loose for the first 15-20' then you enter a chimney and it looks easy. Maybe 5.8R?
From the notch between Cream Dream and Wet Dream stem up to a thin crack. Aid up the crack passing a bolt on the way. At the top of the crack climb 5 bolts and a few holes to a 2 bolt anchor on the summit. Use dowels, hooks or a stick clip to pass the holes. 25-30m 5.7 C2
Alternatively, climb up chossy rock from the P1 anchor on the Chimney Route. I didn't climb this but it looked very loose for the first 15-20' then you enter a chimney and it looks easy. Maybe 5.8R?
From the notch between Cream Dream and Wet Dream stem up to a thin crack. Aid up the crack passing a bolt on the way. At the top of the crack climb 5 bolts and a few holes to a 2 bolt anchor on the summit. Use dowels, hooks or a stick clip to pass the holes. 25-30m 5.7 C2
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