ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start on the sidepull (left) and hueco (right) or matched in the hueco. Move up to a tricky match inside of a good hueco. Top out up and left.
(Disclaimer: I'm pulling these directions from memory, so they may be a bit off)
Starting from the picnic area, cross the bridge and follow the river trail south towards the Dihedrals. Maybe ~200m or less from the Dihedrals, you'll walk beneath some tree coverage and an obvious trail opens up on your lefthand side. There you'll find a few climbable boulders, two of which are Strawberry Sorbet and Charlotte's Web.
[Hide Comment] Note: directions should say a few hundred meters *past* the dihedrals. It's the second set of boulders between the river and the trail, where the first set is basically in the water and obviously not what you want. It's on the left around the bend in the trail once you pass Christian Brothers.
I also had misread the top out instructions apparently. I took the ledge to the left, based on the marked photo & instructions "top out up and left." However in the beta video (which I couldn't watch without service) the climber tops out straight up. Note that I had originally almost tried that myself but my spotter didn't like the look of the fall -- you could easily hit the back of your head on the ledge behind you.
Finishing low on the ledge to the left is probably a V1 variation? I haven't bouldered enough to say. I can't compare the two variations since I only did one, and I'd be lying if I said the moves that I skipped looked easy. And as this was only my third outdoor boulder ever, my next hardest send was a V0+ and to be honest this didn't feel significantly harder to me than that.
All that said I would personally recommend the left finish because of fall risk as I said earlier. But I'm self admitting gumby so hopefully someone with more experience can chime in at some point about whether my evaluations make any sense.
Jan 7, 2020
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
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I also had misread the top out instructions apparently. I took the ledge to the left, based on the marked photo & instructions "top out up and left." However in the beta video (which I couldn't watch without service) the climber tops out straight up. Note that I had originally almost tried that myself but my spotter didn't like the look of the fall -- you could easily hit the back of your head on the ledge behind you.
Finishing low on the ledge to the left is probably a V1 variation? I haven't bouldered enough to say. I can't compare the two variations since I only did one, and I'd be lying if I said the moves that I skipped looked easy. And as this was only my third outdoor boulder ever, my next hardest send was a V0+ and to be honest this didn't feel significantly harder to me than that.
All that said I would personally recommend the left finish because of fall risk as I said earlier. But I'm self admitting gumby so hopefully someone with more experience can chime in at some point about whether my evaluations make any sense. Jan 7, 2020