Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 80 total · 13/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 6, 2018
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first thing you'll notice as you pull onto Devil's Dominion is just how cryptic the sequences are. At first, most of the route feels just downright impossible, but as you work out the incredibly unique sequences it starts to come together as a masterpiece of a route!

Climb up and right on some good holds, then enter the first crux (V8) with a large reach to an undercling with an absurdly high foot, karate chop your right hand to match the undercling, magically stand up into a second undercling, transition your left to a third undercling-gaston, and jam the crack. Rest on the mono then pull through the second crux (V5) with big moves and big compression. Rest on the ledge and enter the final crux, the 25' V7 crux of Dance With The Devil.

Location

Start in the overhang above the cool downed tree. Belay down below the tree.

Protection

13 bolts, 6 are fixed draws.
Stick clip the first two bolts with 24" slings.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.13b/c
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.13b/c
If anyone wants to nab the second ascent, you can check out the beta:

youtube.com/watch?v=mzhEkwU… Jun 7, 2018