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Routes in The Glory Hole

Anonymous Tip S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case Dismissed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cherry Picker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Conspicuous Bulge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dance With The Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devil's Dominion S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Happy Trails S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Headrush S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Henchman, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hibachi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Hatter T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mineshaft S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overhung S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shot In The Dark T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooky Hollow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tootsie Pop S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wayback Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 69 total · 16/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 6, 2018
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first thing you'll notice as you pull onto Devil's Dominion is just how cryptic the sequences are. At first, most of the route feels just downright impossible, but as you work out the incredibly unique sequences it starts to come together as a masterpiece of a route!

Climb up and right on some good holds, then enter the first crux (V8) with a large reach to an undercling with an absurdly high foot, karate chop your right hand to match the undercling, magically stand up into a second undercling, transition your left to a third undercling-gaston, and jam the crack. Rest on the mono then pull through the second crux (V5) with big moves and big compression. Rest on the ledge and enter the final crux, the 25' V7 crux of Dance With The Devil.

Location

Start in the overhang above the cool downed tree. Belay down below the tree.

Protection

13 bolts, 6 are fixed draws.
Stick clip the first two bolts with 24" slings.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.13b/c
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.13b/c
If anyone wants to nab the second ascent, you can check out the beta:

youtube.com/watch?v=mzhEkwU… Jun 7, 2018

More About Devil's Dominion

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