PRINT: Rock Climb Euphorbia, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Euphorbia

5.10a, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
FA: Lemieux/Howes May 2018
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Plumb Line Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Fun new slab route with an exciting crux at the very last move. Start on botton right of slab. Friction up the low angle slab past 3 bolts to a bulge. Runout on easy ground to pro in crack. Stand on 2 chicken heads, clip bolt and figure out the sequence past 5th bolt. Cruise up easier terrain to the exciting last move over a large chickenhead.
70 meter rope mandatory with knots in end!!!
Easy to stick-clip 1st bolt or spot leader.

Location

This route is located on the West facing wall (right as you go up the gully). It's the 2nd bolted route right of Octoberfest 5.7, just down and right of Calderone Slab 5.9.

Protection

9 bolts and one gear placement .4/.5

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kev slabin

Passing the 3rd bolt on the lower slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

steven s

5.10a

Super cool route with a few cruxy moves. One pulling over the ‘roof’, another at the bolt after that, then the hardest moves right before the chains. Don’t cheat straight up and hand traverse over. The move at that slopy chicken head is sweat. I placed an orange metolius half way up but would’ve been ok without it. Long way between bolts but super easy moves. Jun 3, 2019

Kurt Howes

5.10a

Steven has is right; good route with some forever crumbling flakes. 5.8+ to a single 10- move just before anchor.
Supplemental gear unnecessary if you're comfortable on relatively easy lcc 5.9 slab.
You can get away with a 60m rope if lowering to a point further up gulley.
For full value I highly recommend going straight up to anchors from the "slopy chickenhead" instead of cheating the crux by going too far right. Gotta love the deadpoint slap. Feb 10, 2026