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Routes in Columbia Buttress

Last Tango, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 16 pitches
FA: Reudi Beglinger, Cam Molder, Urs Kallen, Dean Flick, Sep 2008
Page Views: 44 total · 18/month
Shared By: N. Aksamit on Jun 5, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This climb follows a lot of terrain that frequently runs with water. Expect dusty spots, and loose rock/gravel on top of holds. It would probably be wise to gives this route a bit of time after rainfall/snowmelt to let it flush some of the rockfall first. Some of the pro we placed was next to bolts that looked like they had either been removed or sheared off by rockfall. I don't know if any pitches could be combined, but the first six are easily simul'd as there are more than enough bolts.

That being said, the rock underneath was surprisingly competent and incredibly fun. This was not the Rocky Mountains Horrorshow I was expecting. It's dirty, not chossy. Fun moves in an incredible spot with pitch after pitch of bolted belays. The route is adequately bolted, sometimes surprisingly so for the alpine feeling you can get. Still, don't expect this to be a sport climb.

P1-4: "Approach Pitches" Follow lots of bolts up to the obvious wide scree covered ledge. There is nothing spectacular about these pitches. Expect lots of gravel to come down on your way up. 5.6.

P5-6: "More Approach Pitches" Cross the scree ledge angling slightly to the left, and then begin climbing on the slab diagonally to the right past a very little roof (to the left takes you to "The Noose"). The belay for Pitch 5 came up surprisingly fast for us, hard to believe it's 50m. From the top of Pitch 5, go straight up across more easy slabs and many bolts to a ledge belay. 5.6

P7: The fun climbing starts. Wander along the bolt line to the left and zig back right next to a roof feature 45m. We didn't place any gear up to this point. 5.8

P8: Climb up and step left, working a small arête feature. Continue straight up. 5.10a

P9: Some harder face moves above the belay and then work back left into the gutter. Some missing bolts here in May 2018. 5.10a

P10: Continue straight up past bolts through a series of large broken ledges. Belay station is somewhere in the middle of them. 5.9

P11: Continue up past some bolts and around the corner to the left, out of view from the belayer. More easy terrain. 5.8

P12: This is the one pitch I think might deserve being called chossy. Follow the bolt line straight up from the belay. Be wary of the teetering tower of blocks creating a right facing corner with the face. Some blocks felt bomber, some would mess your belayer up beyond repair. Just tread lightly, and it's all good. We didn't place any gear above this pitch. 5.10a

P13: This pitch was awesome. Traverse out left onto the arête and enjoy some nice exposure and fun bolt-protected moves. Very cool.

P14-16: Follow the many bolts up to the top. The last pitch is very short. Traverse left and then up through the roof. The finish is right above.  5.8, 5.8, 5.10a.

Descent: The descent trail is obvious from the top. Follow it down, angling slight right until you find painted signs for the Hwy 1 and Rappels. At this point, follow the rough trail over deadfall and through alders past much flagging. It was easy to navigate, but hard walking in May 2018. Once you hit the power lines, follow the path under the power lines until you hit the dirt road, which will take you back to your car. It took us two hours to the car, but could be as short as 1. 

 

Location

Follow the approach from the Canada West/Transcanada parking spot to the base of the Columbia Buttress. We had a bit of a time finding the actual start on the slab, but wandered around up easy terrain until we found a bolt above a broken ledge. 

Protection

Singles from BD 0.3 to 2. 15 QD and 5 shoulder length slings.

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