Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Shawn Kenney/ Jason Tanner June 2018
Page Views: 606 total · 52/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

The first bolt is about centerline of the large Pine Tree.   The route climbs the face for four bolts just right of Chug A Jug then starts up the Arete.  Keep on the Arete and don't be tempted to go to the inside corner.  The route finishes just above the roof.  Be careful when lowering off.  The fall line is to the left and will put you over part of Chug A Jug when lowering off the route. 

This route is brand new and is still dirty and loose just like the rest of this wall was when it first got bolted.  It should clean up nice with some traffic but be cautious of your belayer and other climbers.

Location

The route is the furthest route on the right side of the wall.  The first bolt can be found behind the big pine tree at the right side of the wall.  

Protection

9 bolts to the chains. 

Photos

Josh Vondran
Salt Lake City
 
Josh Vondran   Salt Lake City
 
This route has 2 microwave and bigger sized blocks that are loose about half way up. Was climbing over several climbers today (none of which had helmets) and had to warn them to pay attention to make sure I didn’t accidentally dislodge one on top of them. If it had been just my partner and I, I may have worked on them a bit. To anyone else who climbs this in the near future, please pay attention to this, so someone doesn’t end up severely injured. Jun 5, 2018
shawn Kenney
Draper, UT
  5.8+
shawn Kenney   Draper, UT
  5.8+
There were actually three boulders. The two big ones and a third smaller one that was a little bigger than a basketball sitting on the ledge. The smaller one was what was holding the other two up. The smaller basketball size one was also a hold that many people have been using on a Chug A Jug for years and the only thing holding that stack of boulders up. It's amazing someone didn't pull the smaller one out sending the whole stack down sooner. All three boulders have been cleaned making both routes safer. Jun 6, 2018
mKasner
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
mKasner   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Not sure how I feel about this choss pile. Best part of the route is the slab under the mini roof, but two bolts on that slab are overkill. Some of the bolts appear to be in compromised/hollow rock. Just because something doesn't have bolts on it, doesn't mean it should be bolted. This route is one of them. Could have placed 2 or 3 less bolts. 1st bolt can be clipped just standing on the ground, what's the point of this bolt if it isn't going to keep jerry from decking? Jun 12, 2018
shawn Kenney
Draper, UT
  5.8+
shawn Kenney   Draper, UT
  5.8+
@Kasner. If your familiar with this wall and its history you know that this entire wall was a giant choss pile for years. When I added the wall and the routes to Mountain Project back in 2007 people where pulling holds off the routes on a regular basis and it was extremely dirty. The route will clean up over time just as the others have. People really had heartburn over the upper wall and routes for years. They have also cleaned up way better than most people thought they ever would. Jun 12, 2018
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
  5.8+
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
  5.8+
Fun route. I thought the movement was more fun than the route to the left. Seemed odd to have 2 bolts on the arete up high when you can put nuts or cams in the crack on the inside. Also the slab only needed one bolt to be safe. Instead of going around to the left pop the roof using some dirteeee, lichen covered rock for a fun, spicy end this cool addition to the area. The route is easy down low with some fun 5.8 moves near the arete and crack, and if you pop the roof up high, you could maybe call it a 5.9 crux, maybe. 5.8+ in my book. Jun 28, 2018