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The Queen of Shangri La

5.11c PG13, Trad, Alpine, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Kezzie Shuster, Roy Suggett, Alexis Mollard
Utah > S Central Utah > Jungle, on the… > Shangri La

Description

A gorgeous and sustained line that keeps you engaged from start to finish. A difficult sequence right off the ground that requires technical footwork while following the arcing finger crack. The gear is good but strenuous to place so move quickly through the lower sequence and keep a strong head. Continue up the wide crack until you reach the top where you will find an anchor. This line will make you work for it but will leave you satisfied!

The direct start for The Queen of Shangri La follows the right arcing finger crack. The Princess of Shangri La is an easier variation that follows the left crack. 

Location

The line can be spotted in the corner to the right of Cannibalistic Tendencies. Access the base of the climb using the via feratta. There is a bolt for the belayer at the top of the ledge to feel more secure.

Protection

BD – 0.3, 0.4, 0.5(x3), 0.75, 1(x2), 2(x2), 3(x2), 4(x3), 6

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Queen of Shangri La
[Hide Photo] The Queen of Shangri La
Follow the arching crack on the right that turns back into the corner
[Hide Photo] Follow the arching crack on the right that turns back into the corner
The direct start to The Queen of Shangri La is the left arcing finger crack (yellow line) for an easier start climb the variation The Princess of Shangri La (red line)
[Hide Photo] The direct start to The Queen of Shangri La is the left arcing finger crack (yellow line) for an easier start climb the variation The Princess of Shangri La (red line)
Getting psyched to do this hard FA
[Hide Photo] Getting psyched to do this hard FA
Kezzie on the FA
[Hide Photo] Kezzie on the FA

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Roy Suggett
 
[Hide Comment] Opening moves are not to be taken lightly. There is potential for a fall on gear that may not avoid the talus fin coming off the deck. Good belay needed! Jun 4, 2018