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Routes in Upper Gully

Climb Warp, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight Deck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Promenade S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Riff Raff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocky Horror S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sideshow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Transcendsite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Andre Lechner 2010
Page Views: 54 total · 12/month
Shared By: Randy Von Zee on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Zig Zag across the first couple of bolts and then up. Many rests along the way. It may be tempting to get off the ground from the left side of the corner, but it will be way easier on the right if you try it.

Protection

11 bolts to anchor

Photos

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Matt Hagny
  5.10d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10d
The start stymied me, but my partner unlocked the sequence -- easiest, safest path is directly under the first bolt, arriving slightly R of second bolt. (Following the chalk leads you astray--you'll be too far left, and have to resort to heinous moves on micro crimpers while your butt and legs are still under the overhang, tilting you out) Aug 25, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10d
Amazing line, with numerous cruxes of varying styles -- crimps, liebacks, etc. Quite a workout! Aug 25, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10d
I'd suggest using only a biner on the first bolt, not a draw. It's a bit low for protecting the moves to the second bolt. Aug 29, 2018

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