Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft
FA: Hugh Burton, Terry Rollerson 1969
Page Views: 175 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Jun 3, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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The line of first ascent. Do not ascend the rappel route described under the Enchainment). Climb all the way to the South Spire-Rexford col, i.e. to climber's right of the rap route. Climbblocky 4th class terrain up and right, moving out around the corner of the spire onto the upper east buttress, then curving back to climber's left, for around 2 pitches in total. This brings you to the base of the South Spire summit block, which is split entirely through by an offwidth. The north side of the summit OW is easier than the south side! There's no good anchor on top, but a person on the base one side can hold the rope fixed while a climber on top raps down the opposite side of the block.


Right out of the notch.


Bring a 4" or 4.5" cam for the 15 foot summit block offwidth.