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> Nesakwatch Spires
North Nesakwatch Spire - Nesakwatch Notch (NE Buttress)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British Mod. Snow
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Nesakwatch Spires
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Dairyland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ensawkwatch Enchainment (D) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lazy Lunch Packers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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North Nesakwatch Spire - Nesakwatch Notch (NE Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow |
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North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face Right(Neufeld/Struthers) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face to W Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow |
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North Spire - North Ridge (PD+) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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North Spire - SW Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soscratchmewhere T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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South Spire - East Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow |
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South Spire - North Ridge (AD-) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Spire - South Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Spire - West Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waltz Right In T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Nick Jones, Kirt Sellars 1984 |
| Page Views: | 930 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Jun 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
A big route from the 80s that is still probably unrepeated. Finding the route in condition can be problematic as it depends on snow through the notch but is then a rock climb. Access from Centre Creek. Cross the creek and climb a snow gully into the basin as per Rexford north face. Head right towards North Nesakwatch Spires NE rib/buttress, aiming for the huge cleft. Climb snow into this cleft and under the free-standing chockstone. Downclimb a pitch on the other side of the notch, below the N face. Climb steep and inobvious rock and bush (mostly 5.7 but with moves to 5.9+) for 5 pitches, right of the notch, to gain the crest of the buttress above the notch. Follow this to the summit (7-8 pitches to 5.6)
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