Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft, 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Nick Jones, Kirt Sellars 1984
Page Views: 53 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Jun 3, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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A big route from the 80s that is still probably unrepeated. Finding the route in condition can be problematic as it depends on snow through the notch but is then a rock climb. Access from Centre Creek. Cross the creek and climb a snow gully into the basin as per Rexford north face. Head right towards North Nesakwatch Spires NE rib/buttress, aiming for the huge cleft. Climb snow into this cleft and under the free-standing chockstone. Downclimb a pitch on the other side of the notch, below the N face. Climb steep and inobvious rock and bush (mostly 5.7 but with moves to 5.9+) for 5 pitches, right of the notch, to gain the crest of the buttress above the notch. Follow this to the summit (7-8 pitches to 5.6)




Gear to 3" plus crampons, ice tools and some snow/ice protection. Possibly a few pins.