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Routes in Nesakwatch Spires

Dairyland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ensawkwatch Enchainment (D) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face Right(Neufeld/Struthers) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face to W Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow
North Nesakwatch Spire - Nesakwatch Notch (NE Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow
North Spire - North Ridge (PD+) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
North Spire - SW ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Spire - East Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow
South Spire - North Ridge (AD-) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Spire - South Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft, 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Nick Jones, Kirt Sellars 1984
Page Views: 29 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Jun 3, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

A big route from the 80s that is still probably unrepeated. Finding the route in condition can be problematic as it depends on snow through the notch but is then a rock climb. Access from Centre Creek. Cross the creek and climb a snow gully into the basin as per Rexford north face. Head right towards North Nesakwatch Spires NE rib/buttress, aiming for the huge cleft. Climb snow into this cleft and under the free-standing chockstone. Downclimb a pitch on the other side of the notch, below the N face. Climb steep and inobvious rock and bush (mostly 5.7 but with moves to 5.9+) for 5 pitches, right of the notch, to gain the crest of the buttress above the notch. Follow this to the summit (7-8 pitches to 5.6)

Location

See TOPO

Protection

Gear to 3" plus crampons, ice tools and some snow/ice protection. Possibly a few pins.

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