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Orecchio + Itaca + Rattle Snake

5.11, Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Motti/Morello 1975 & Beuchod/Monelli/Mozzati 1979, Ala Fabretto Salini 1982
International > Europe > Italy > Valle dell' Orco > Caporal


If this route were in Yosemite, it'd be world famous. After a short mediocre pitch, climb the fabulous Orecchio del Pachidermo (Elephant's Ear) (5.10) then up the Placcha Argentata (5.11) for two pitches. Finish up Rattle Snake with three pitches of strenous wide cracks that can be liebacked. The bolts come and go, if they are gone, take several big cams (2 ea. #4-#5).


Follow the trail as for BAT until you come across the start (before BAT). The first pitch climbs up a crack for a few meters to a pin, then traverses right (looking up) along a horizontal crack for two meters to another pin and a chimney that you follow to an anchor. There is very closely bolted steep 7a just to the right of the start (Orco Belin). To the left, there is a bolted arete (Fessura del Pipistrello).


1 set of cams to #3 C4, double up on the intermediate and hands sizes, 1 set of stoppers, 15 qds.

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Patrick Grof-Tisza
Neuch√Ętel, CH
[Hide Comment] The start was a little confusing to find as the classic 2nd pitch is hidden from the base of the route. However, finding the chimney is straightforward. It's possible to continue up the center crack instead of traversing right at the horizontal but it's considerably harder and the second would take a unpleasant swinging fall into the chimney. The 2nd pitch is awesome. Most of crack was more towards BD #3 than #2, good to know if deciding to take extra pieces. We did not continue after the 2nd pitch. Whike it was good, it was a lot of effort for really just 1 pitch. Jul 29, 2022