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Orecchio + Itaca + Rattle Snake
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 4 from 3
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Routes in Caporal
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BAT T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Orecchio + Itaca + Rattle Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Via della Rivoluzione T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Motti/Morello 1975 & Beuchod/Monelli/Mozzati 1979, Ala Fabretto Salini 1982 |
| Page Views: | 468 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | B L on Jun 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
If this route were in Yosemite, it'd be world famous. After a short mediocre pitch, climb the fabulous Orecchio del Pachidermo (Elephant's Ear) (5.10) then up the Placcha Argentata (5.11) for two pitches. Finish up Rattle Snake with three pitches of strenous wide cracks that can be liebacked. The bolts come and go, if they are gone, take several big cams (2 ea. #4-#5).
Location
Follow the trail as for BAT until you come across the start (before BAT). The first pitch climbs up a crack for a few meters to a pin, then traverses right (looking up) along a horizontal crack for two meters to another pin and a chimney that you follow to an anchor. There is very closely bolted steep 7a just to the right of the start (Orco Belin). To the left, there is a bolted arete (Fessura del Pipistrello).
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